‘Tis the season for making your home smell scrumptious with freshly baked cookies. I decided to branch out from the usual pumpkin pie this Thanksgiving and made the best ginger cookies instead.
Nothing against pumpkin pie, it’s one of my seasonal favorites. So much so that I made it for my birthday a week earlier than Thanksgiving. Plus the cookies are less fuss when you’re making a multi-course meal, hoping that everything is ready to eat at the same time. Timing is everything!
As I stirred up the cookie batter, I remembered how deeply entrenched I was in health-ifying baked goods during my disordered eating days.
Diet culture has had a huge impact on baking ingredients in the last 2 decades
Not eating gluten? No problem, use a gluten-free baking mix. Not eating grains? No problem (yes it is a problem), use nut flour. While using any of these alternative flours might satisfy your dieting mind, they defy the laws of baking science; which, can lead to hockey puck holiday cookies.
Since recovering from my disordered eating and baking days, I love using locally sourced ingredients whenever I can (I’m not rigid about it). Using flour from locally sourced, small family farmers often have a more robust flavor than conventionally grown and milled flour. What makes the flavor more intense and satisfying? I’ll explain why in just a moment, but first let’s do a little grain anatomy.
Whole grains have three parts. The outer bran layer gives the grain its high fiber content. The inner endosperm makes up the bulk of the carbohydrates. Lastly, the germ embedded in the endosperm is the powerhouse of the grain with the highest protein content.
When you eat local whole grains you benefit from eating the various nutrients from each part. Each of these parts also contributes to the flavor of the grain.
Baked goods made with whole-grain flour, have an earthiness because of the bran. Sweetness because of the endosperm, and nuttiness because of the germ. However, when grains are refined they lose some of their nutritional value and satisfying flavor as sawdust on the refinery floor! So, how do you know which whole-grain flour will work best for your holiday baking needs?
Bakers turn to hard wheat flour for bread making as it is higher in protein – including gluten, which makes the dough sticky and elastic. This allows air bubbles to form as the yeast or baking powder/baking soda combo interacts with the carbohydrates in the flour to create leavening in the bread.
Flours from soft wheat have less protein and less elastic quality, which makes them ideal for delicate pastries and cakes.
My personal favorite baker, The Tiny Kitchen, owned by culinary instructor and baker Lisa Crawford, makes bread and other baked goods with whole grain flours from a number of small mills including Cairnsprings Mill, Camus Country, Fairhaven Mill, Bluebird Farm, and Smalls Family Farm.
In a recent Savor Food and Body Podcast interview with Lisa Crawford, she explains the art of milling grain for flavor and function – both necessary for creating the most satisfying baked goods.
In the spirit of the holiday baking season, consider visiting a local artisan bakery near you or stopping by a baker’s booth at your local farmers market. Ask where they get their flour from (and buy some of their bread or sweets). You might be able to get your hands on the same flour to test drive in your holiday baking recipes. or in the recipe below!
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Fresh Ginger Cookies
A chewy-cookie-lover’s alternative to ginger snaps, these cookies are all about the chewy centers. They are not overly sweet, although can be rolled in granulated sugar for a sweet crunch to the exterior.
Makes about 3 dozen cookies.
Ingredients:
2 1/4 cups whole grain flour such as whole wheat pastry, spelt, or emmer farro
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons grated/minced fresh ginger (or 2 tsp powdered)
1/2 cup butter, softened
3/4 cup granulated sugar
2/3 cup prune puree (1 cup whole prunes makes about 2/3 cup puree)
1 egg
Extra sugar for rolling/dusting, if desired
Puree prunes in a food processor until smooth. In a large mixing bowl, combine flour, soda, and salt. In a separate bowl, beat ginger, butter, and sugar until light and fluffy. Beat in egg, followed by prune puree.
Gently fold in the dry mixture to the wet mixture until just combined. Wrap in plastic wrap or parchment paper and chill for 1 hour.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). Roll dough into 1 1/2 inch balls and place 2 inches apart on ungreased baking sheets. For extra sweetness and glitz, roll the balls in granulated sugar before baking. Bake until edges start to brown, about 15 minutes.
Let stand on cookie sheets for 1 minute and remove to racks to cool completely.
